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  • Harry Fane

"The trick is to live long enough to tell the tale"...Clive Kandel...

CK posted the following on Instagram:

Exceptional, early, Cartier, Paris 1922 Art Deco, Onyx and Diamond Bracelet; from a series of similar design-themed jewels exhibited in the Cartier Pavillion at the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale Des Arts Deccoratifs et Industriels. The design and pattern of the bracelet is that of a typical early 1920s checkerboard design. The late Queen Mother had worn several bracelets of similar design in different colour combinations at the same time on her wrist. Although very popular during the 1920s, the Cartier version of this popular style is very unusual.

The bracelet was originally bought from Cartier by Marquis de Casa Maury for Paula Gellibrand, whom he had married in 1923. Paula Gellibrand, Marquise de Casa Maury (1898-1986) was once one of the favourite models of Cecil Beaton and was often described by her contemporaries as "the most beautiful woman in Europe". As well, de Casa Maury was part of the Prince of Wales set and lived an exotic international society life. Her collection of Cartier, Paris and Cartier, London jewels were sold through different London venues in the early 1970s.

The bracelet was sold back to Cartier, London for approximately £550 sterling in May 1973 and then sold to S.H. Harris, prominent London dealers, who in turn sold it to Clive Kandel in June 1973 for £925 sterling. Within two days it was then sold for £1,229 sterling to the renowned Paris dealers Le Vieux St. Honore of the Oxeda family.

At the time the price was considered very high, as there are 8 carats of diamonds set in the bracelet and £100 per carat was considered excessive even for such a piece of jewellery. It later appeared in the last few years on the New York market, priced over $350,000.

In the next image, Paula Gellibrand is seen in her 1928 portrait by Cecil Beaton, wearing the Cartier furthest down on her right arm.

Back in the 1970s, Clive Kandel was one of the first people to show an interest in vintage Cartier. Long before anyone else had recognised that the jewellery and precious objects made by Cartier in the 1920s and 1930s was worthy of closer attention, Clive had already established a gallery in central London always full of beautiful old and rare Cartier pieces. His interest in the people who patronised Cartier and the history of the Firm has remained undiminished and his recall and knowledge are widely recognised and celebrated. HF

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